It is time i finally get a bed frame, my wife and i both like this one. It looks like something i can build myself.

I would love to try building this with as few nails/screws as possible. It is for a King Sized bed.

  • marxismtomorrow@lemmy.today
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    3 hours ago

    You don’t want this OP. Look up mold under closed bed frames. You will sweat. That sweat will wicker through the mattress, that sweat will get trapped under the mattress, that sweat will then fester and mold.

    If you do something similar to this, make sure there are air holes and good airflow in the bookcases.

      • marxismtomorrow@lemmy.today
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        0
        ·
        3 hours ago

        I’m just saying you need more airflow than you realize, even in arid climates. Without airflow relative humidity doesn’t mean much, your undercarriage will still get high local humidity.

  • MonkderVierte@lemmy.zip
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    7 hours ago

    3 cabinets, put bed base (Bettrost?) on top? Use glue if you don’t want screws. Or don’t.

    Btw, you should make sure you can still vacuum in there.

    • thatKamGuy@sh.itjust.works
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      0
      ·
      10 hours ago

      Serious answer to an unserious question, but you could drop the bed slats by 10-15mm to “tuck” the mattress into the frame and stop it from sliding around during rigorous nighttime activities.

  • SadSadSatellite @lemmy.dbzer0.com
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    13 hours ago

    Three identical cabinets, the length of which added to the depth is equal to the length of the mattress.

    If you don’t want to carve out a rabbet, make the back of each 3/4" short, so you have a space to drop the stretcher boards.

    If you don’t want to use screws, dovetail the carcasses and dado the dividers.

  • Skyrmir@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    0
    ·
    15 hours ago

    That’s the two killer 3000 model. It’s pocket screws holding together a box. The plywood across the back of each box gives it stiffness.

    I would strongly suggest throwing some 2x4’s under it, and a few inches back. Just to get that bottom edge above toe height. Anything you’re likely to walk right up to should have toe clearance. Especially if you might do that in the dark, like a bed.

    • runner_g@piefed.blahaj.zone
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      0
      ·
      5 hours ago

      Once you raise it up, get 2 6 foot strands of LEDs with a motion sensor trigger and stick the LEDs facing the floor on either side and the sensor facing outwards. No you have an automated nightlight that won’t wake you partner. Trust me it’s amazing.

      • dejected_warp_core@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        0
        ·
        4 hours ago

        I bought a cheap articulated bedframe that came with “running lights” underneath, similar to this. At first I was skeptical. In practice, having a nightlight that illuminates just the bed’s edge is unobtrusive and (surprisingly) exactly where you want light to avoid bashing toes and shins in the dark. Also, it only amounts to something like eight decent wattage warm LEDs; it’s not even a whole strip. It doesn’t take much.

      • Skyrmir@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        0
        ·
        5 hours ago

        Yeah, but I went with the ghetto version and threw a a toilet bowl light under each side of the bed.

    • klangcola@reddthat.com
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      0
      ·
      12 hours ago

      I never thought about the toe killer potential of floor-flush furniture.

      But won’t a 2x4 place it at an awkward height where it’s tall enough to accumulate heaps of dust, but not tall enough to easily clean underneath? I have a sofa like that, and hate cleaning under it